Tag: NOLSWOE12

Leaving the backcountry, transferring the last weeks of experience into the front country. A short skin out, and a shock to be back at base. Notes:

• Woke up early at our final campsite. No breakfast, packed up quickly and skinned out the last 500 meters.
• Van and truck picked us up on side of road, and we drove 2.5 hours through driving snow, over Teton Pass, to NOLS Teton Valley Base.
• At base, each of us de-issued personal gear, and then cleaned and de-issued group gear. After being together as a group in the backcountry, we worked very effeciently together as a group in the front country.
• NOLS TVB staff made us a tasty, light meal for our return – too much heavy food after weeks on backcountry rations is a bad idea, makes you sick. So we ate a light lunch.
• After lunch, finally showers and change into fresh clothes. First shower/shave in weeks!
• Finally, at the end of a long day, graduation and final group meeting.
• People departed for Idaho Falls and Jackson soon thereafter. Most of us went to the same hotel in Idaho Falls. Good to stay in the frontcountry with a bunch of people.
• In Idaho Falls, we dropped our bags at hotel, and met up for dinner at Outback Steakhouse. A terrible chain restaurant, but after backcountry rations, a welcome site. Hearty, fatty, cheap chain food was just what was needed. Steak, lobster, shrimp, bloomin onion, beer, cake, ice cream, questadillas, hot wings, waffles, etc etc. Ate as much as we could.
• LATE night for us – passed out at 9:45. Shared hotel room with Scott.
• Tomorrow, final group breakfast at Dennys.

Our last full day in the backcountry, retracing our tracks across Teton-Bridger National Forest to our final trailhead campsite. Notes:

• Extra early wakeup at high camp this morning, to allow time to pack everything up and get going. Today we retraced two days worth of upward tracks in one day, so 9 hours of hard travel time were allotted.
• As part of getting ready to depart, we partially destroyed our snow shelters and kitchens. After living in them for so long, its a strange feeling to destroy it.
• As we departed, we laused for a quick group photo.
• Descending from high camp on telemark skis while towing a gear aled was intense, and not an easy feat. The running wisdom is “go faster than your sled”. Going around corners and through steep drainages is particularly difficult.
• When we finally reached the flat meadow, we decided not to put our skins on our skis for travel across the flats. Instead, we used kick wax to give is grip going across the snow. Kick wax comes in small round blocks, and is applied cold to the bottom of the ski. Unlike hot wax. Kick wax makes the bottom of the ski stick to snow. The wax does work to give more grip on the snow, but only a little bit. Even a slight incline becomes a major chore. Although it’s said that you can go faster with kick wax than with skins, I found it to be quite the opposite – skins are much better.
• Our final camp tonight is very close to the road, in a stand of aspens. We set Up a few megamids and a few individual shelters. A few people are bivying too.
• Tomorrow morning we’ll get picked up by the truck at 9:30 and will be on our way back to NOLS base for hot showers and fresh food.

Another day of beautiful weather gives us the opportunity to ski tour the surrounding mountains. I lead a group to the north. Notes:

• After breakfast, we convened as a group and made our way across the meadow to the base of the mountains. There, our instructors had created a full scale avalanche multiple burial scenario.
• We quickly organized, and started the search for buried avalanche victims. Most had beacons on, but two didn’t. Searching For buried victims without a beacon is very tedious, and requires the use of an organized probe line. We line up on one side of the slide zone and do a coordinated grid search with probes.
• Afternoon, I led a group on a fun tour to the hills north of our campsite. Got some good turns in, and a great burn skinning back up.
• This evening we did course and personal evals, and then had a relaxing campire. Had a good long conversation with Roger Yim.
• Tomorrow we ski with sleds back to the lowlands, in preparation for our departure from the backcountry.

A spectacular bluebird day leads to powder turns down untracked backcountry terrain. Notes:

• Woke up early morning before the sun. From our high camp, it’s possible to see out across the valley, across Jackson Lake, to the lights of downtown Jackson, Wyoming. A spectacular, and eerie view from deep within the backcountry.
• Also, on a cold, clear, high pressure night like last night, the biew of the stars is truly awesome. Standing under the bright stars in the cold of the -18 degrees C night makes it feel like you’re in space.
• Not a cloud in the sky today, and very cold temperatures.
• Quick breakfast, and then climbing skins on the skis and we’re immediately skinning up to the top of the peak.
• Since we’ve seen a bumch of layers of snow deposited since we’ve been here, climbing into steep terrain is a great opportunity for more avalanch science. We stopped periodically to look at snowpack and assess terrain features before moving across it. We also noticed a few avalanche runout paths from slides triggered last night.
• Had a great day skinning up and skiing down pristine terrain. Telemark turns in waist deep powder is a true pleasure.
• Overall, covered about 3500 vertical feet on skis today
• Early dinner tonight watching the sunset behind the Tetons.
• Tomorrow is a rest day to let bodies and blisters heal.

After it provided us refuge from the biggest snowstorm of the season, today it was finally time to leave our Bailey Meadows camp and climb higher. Notes:

• Packed up camp early this morning. We’ve been eating lots of food and naturally assumed that our packs and sleds would be lighter. However, due to both Jake leaving behind his portion of gear, food, and fuel, and Emily’s team picking up a food and fuel cache a few days earlier, we were actually hauling a lot more.
• It’s a good thing, though. Up here at high camp, the temperature is a bit colder, and the wind whips down from the looming peaks faster and harder. All we can do to stay warm is layer up and keep eating emergy dense foods.
• Because Jake left the group, we’ve reorganized ourselves into three groups of four. Now, I’m in a new cook group, which is a good opportunity to fine tune “expedition behavior” with a new group of people. Also, my group is “vegetarian” so I’ll get some experience cooking a new menu.
• The skin up to high camp was hard, but relatively straightforward – we had already broke trail to high camp the day before while we were touring.
• Once in camp, we got to work setting up our snow caves. This time around much larger and more elaborate.
• The snow here is about 180cm deep, and I got a good workout shoveling it all out.
• Quick dinner tonight and bed. Looking forward to spectacular weather and high country ski touring tomorrow.

At long last, the storm that has kept us pinned in camp for the last 4 days has cleared. Revealed is a beautiful white landscape of pristine powder. Lets ski it! Notes:

• Woke up this morning to the last bits of the storm. By the end of breakfast, snow had trailed off and dark clouds were beginning to turn into ligjt whisps.
• In preparation for moving camp higher up the mountain, we took light daypacks and skinned up to higher country to investigate the terrain.
• The weather kept getting better, so we continued up past our soon to be higher camp site and climbed up a small mountain.
• The bright sun, frozen trees, and windblown snow made for a dramatic ascent, which I lead.
• From the top, great views over Jackson Lake into the prominent Tetons.
• Naturally, we skied down all the way to low camp.
• Tonight in camp we did another snow fire, and a few fun readings.
• Tomorrow, we move camp up the mountain and dig new snow shelters.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/6799380907/in/set-72157628782735241

When Jake left during the snowstorm, we sent a group after him to make sure he was safe. Today, I’m part of the team going to assist the evacuation team in getting back to camp with all of our supplies and cached rations. Notes:

• This morning, volunteered to e part of team to go searching for evacuation team. Our goal was to find them in the field, and make sure they made to camp safely. Since they were also supposed to be picking up our cached rerations of food, we were to help get the food back to camp.
• Day started as any other – skiing out of camp with basic daypacks.
• We followed a drainage over the ridge, which we though would take us directly down to the valley floor right on top of where the evacuation team was camped.
• As we skied further down the drainage, the terrain got increasingly steep and unstable. Since snow had been falling for the past 2 days, there was lots of new snow loaded up on top of old dry snow, on increasingly steep slopes. Avalanche conditions.
• Progress down the drainage continued to slow as the terrain got steeper. We separated the group out along our pathway, so an avalanche couldn’t take out the entire group at once.
• At one point, Elliott triggeref an avalanche on a slope he had just skied over, and which i was about to ski over. If we had not been maintaining separation, I would have been swept away.
• Eventually we found our way out of the steep drainage. After a bit of routefinding, we met up with the evac group and helped lighten their loads.
• The hike back to camp with heavy sleds full of food and fuel was very difficult, but eventually we made it.
• Back at camp, Michael had carved a communal table out of snow, and we all gathered around it for dinner
• Tonight I prepared my lesson plan for the class on Leave No Trace Outdoor Ethics I’ll be teaching to the group tomorrow.

Another long day, this time battling a blizzard surrounding us, which is supposed to drop at least 3 feet of snow before it ends. Notes:

• Earlier 06:30 wakeup, and the last breakfast we’ll cook in our communal kitchen. Now in preparation for the impending storm, we’ve created kitchens right outside of our snow cave. Much easier cooking and staying out of the storm. Since it’s made of snow and constantly getting snowed on, the
  kitchen needs constant shovel maintenance.
• Jake is still sick, and needs to be evacuated so he can receive medical treatment. With the storm bearing down on us and surrounding regions, we heard that teton pass has been closed – so our location is inaccessesable by car. This means that even if we did get Jake back to the road, there would be no way to get him into town. For the time being, Jake is being kept in camp. We’re making sure he’s kept warm, dry, and well fed. Hopefully the storm will break soon and we’ll be able to get Jake out.
• Carson’s knee is luckily feeling better after yesterdays fall, and he continues to ice it.
• To keep busy during the storm, a few of us did some runs down the hill on the other side of the meadow. With this much snow coming down, our tracks quickly get covered up. Routefinding is necessary on every lap up and down.
• Tonight in camp I sat with our NOLS instructors and discussed evacuation decision making factors and process. We also went over standard emergency management procedures. It’a great to be able to discuss this with them and get their unique perspective.
• Early dinner tonight, and then time in the snow cave prepping gear for more touring tomorrow.
• Expecting three feet of snow overnight – keeping avalanche beacons with us in sleeping bags, and a snow shovel by the door. Outside temp: -3 degrees C.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamfan2/6799375795/in/set-72157628782735241

It’s true what they say about backcountry ski touring: you gotta work for your turns. Notes:

• Slept fitfully in -20 degree C temperatures last night. Despite wearing 6 layers plus a -20 degree F sleeping bag, things were still chili. Everybody was a bit cold.
• NeoAir Thermarest plus thin foam pad is working well as insulation from the snow floor. Using empty backpack as ground insulation for feet.
• Oatmeal for breakfast, and a later than usual start on the day. Finally got breakfast wrapped up and the group assembled by around 11.
• Keeping camp setup today while we skin up and ski down a small mountain on the other side of the meadow we’re camping on.
• Jake is still sick with flu-like symptoms, so staying behind today. He needs rest to recover from illness.
• Skin up was a great burn. No sleds and light daypacks so everythig was nice and comfy. Good workout going uphill kept me warm for a bit.
• Great powder turns coming back down. Telemarking in deep backcountry powder requires a balance that I’m still perfecting – but its good fun.
• Stripping off climbing skins from the bottoms of my skis and switching bindings from climbing to downhill mode is getting a lot faster. I’m learning how to keep the skin adhesive out of the snow and still work with it quickly.
• Mike burnt out after 1 run and returned to camp. Rest of us kept going for a few more runs.
• Carson fell going over a tree stump on the last run of the day and twisted his knee. Will probably stay at camp tomorrow to recover.
• I made chili for dinner tonight. Rice, dried refried black beans, dried refried pinto beans, tomato powder, sauteed pepperoni, grilled chopped breakfast sausage, siracha sauce. Tasty and filling. Lots of calories to power us through the cold cold night. Currently -10 degrees C in snow shelter.
• Tomorrow we’re leaving early to go find and recover food and fuel from our hidden cache a few miles away.
• Layers I’m sleeping in: Ibex wool tshirt, Patagonia R1 half zip, ArcTeryx soft shell, ArtTeryx poof jacket.

Today was my groups first day in the backcountry. The group consists of people with varying amounts of experience living outside in the winter, so for the first day, we took it nice and easy.

• Woke up early morning at NOLS-TVB base and after a quick breakfast packed up the truck with our packs, sleds, skis, and poles.
• Drive from Victor out to the trailhead was about 2.5 hours, broken up by a nice stop in downtown Jackson. Good to see the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar again!
• Trailhead wasn’t really a trailhead in winter… More like a road pullout next to a hug e snowbank made by the plows.
• Hoisted gear off the trucks and onto the snow, and got moving.
• Ski touring while dragging a heavy sled is a different beast. Lots more to consider as you move over the snow dragging a sled. Balance, steering, and manouvering around obstacles. Ski kick efficiency is also reduced when pulling a sled. Speed goes down, and everything takes much longer.
• Camp was setup at the edge of a small meadow about 3 miles in. We”re using Black Diamond Megamids as shelters. Since we’re setting ip on snow, we can dig out the inside of the shelter to provide more floor space and a bit of insulation from the snow.
• Dug out of the snow a kitchen area, complete with counter space, an insulating refrigerator, and shelving storage space.
• Made mac and cheese for dinner, with questadillas as an appetizer. Also, melted a ton of snow for drinking water.
• Did a few basic classes on sleeping on snow, and now going to bed. Tomorrow early wakeup for 0900 departure
• Ski touring is great! I love living out in the snow… Living deliberately.

Today was another full day at Grand Targhee Resort. In order to travel in the backcountry, it’s necessary to be very comfortable on skis – and since I’ll be using relatively new telemark skis, climbing skins, and will be pulling a gear sled, the more practice I can get before heading out into the backcountry, the better.

The morning was spent in a telemark lesson with my old friend Erica Linnell. Erica was an instructor on my very first NOLS course in Alaska, which I did the summer after I graduated high school. I spent a month with her hiking across the northern Talkeetna mountain range. Now, Erica lives in Driggs, and works for the NOLS Wilderness Medicine Institute, and teaches lessons at Grand Targhee. It was great to reconnect with Erica after 13 years!

After a full day at Grand Targhee, we came back to the NOLS base for a tasty dinner. This evening in Victor, Idaho we went to check out the Backcountry Film Festival. It seemed like the whole town came out to check out the latest backcountry adventure films. Standouts of the night included “Solitaire” by Sweetgrass Productions, and “Breaking Trail” by Powderwhore.

Solitaire trailer

Breaking Trail trailer